#Master cylinder 1968 el camino manual
The pedal is set up in the manual position (rod in upper hole) right now and is adjusted to almost the shallowest position. I mocked it up on the car and would push the piston in about 1-1/4" by the time it was bolted down, so it obviously won't work, even if I found an identical unit. My M/C (1" bore with big/small reservoir) has the shallow hole. Now I'm being told that 1-1/8" will work?Ĭan anyone answer this question? What is the relavance of deep and shallow holes in the piston for the pedal rod? I'm guessing power had shallow and manual had deep? If that's the case, then this confuses my situation more.
Everything I've read, in the posts that I've searched, leads me to believe that a 1" bore is needed on a manual disc application, to make more pressure (and make up for the lack of power assist). I appreciate the help so far, but I'm still a little confused. Not sure if this original Prop valve is any good, so I might need to get a different one. I'll also be plumbing a line-loc to the fronts.
I'm not concerned about "original" appearance. If anyone knows an inexpensive/simple way to get these brakes working, I'd like to hear from you. Made 670HP/600FT/LBS on dyno with 93 octane and ran 10.50's in the Chevelle through the mufflers with 3.73 gears and DOT slicks. ATI supercharger and air to water intercooler through a 750DP. It's a 406 small block with a very agressive solid roller cam. The Chevelle had manual drums on all 4 corners. I was looking for one with equal sized reservoirs, but that's not right.Īs for running power brakes, I had this motor in a 71 Chevelle about 7 years ago, but can't recall how much vacuum it had. I think I'm on the right track now anyway. The 69 shows 1-1/8" for both power and manual, which I know is not correct. I tried to look up a 67, but they don't show manual disc/drum. I'll head back to the parts store and try to match this one up. I'm now wondering if this is actually the one that came with the car and I had the other one confused with it. When I got home I dug through some more old parts and found a M/C that has the big/little reservoirs on it and has a 1" bore. Sorry, it's my first post and I must have been looking at the Body Shop when I sent it. I hope somebody can shed some light on this for me. I need to run manual brakes, because my engine won't produce enough vacuum to operate power brakes, so I want to make this work. I guess someone could have put the wrong cylinder on it many years ago. Will this work properly, or do I need to keep looking for a different master cyl? I have no way to know if the brake system was functioning properly on the donor car, since it was just a bare body and frame when I got it. I have most of the original front to rear brake line, and it is the one-piece style, without the valve under the body. It has about 5 or 6 lines going into/out of it and and electrical connection. Can anyone tell me if this would have the proper internal components for my disc/drum set-up? I also have the dist block mounted under the master cylinder. I did buy that one, but kept my core for now until I can confirm this new one will work. The one they list for manual drum brakes has a 1" bore and physically looks identical to mine. The one they show for manual and power disc brakes has a 1-1/8" bore. I went to two auto parts stores looking for a replacement. It's pretty rusty and I can't move the piston (without using a hammer) so rebuilding it is probably going to require a new sleeve, so I' d like to just get a rebuilt unit. From what I can tell this is the correct master cylinder. It is the small body cylinder, with equal volume front and back. It has what appears to be the original master cylinder on it, casting number ends with "310". I took a complete front brake system, with master cylinder, from a donor 69 Camaro. I'm hoping someone can help me out and speak from experience. I've done a lot of research on this, and read dozens of prior posts on the subject, but still haven't come up with a definate conclusion.
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